Church Hill, Mississippi: A Hidden Treasure for Southern Photography

If you’re searching for a truly authentic destination for Southern photography or planning your next Mississippi photography road trip, look no further than Church Hill, Mississippi. Nestled in Jefferson County, this quiet, historic community is a goldmine for photographers who love capturing rustic architecture, forgotten places, and timeless Southern charm.

After you've read my post of Church Hill, MS please check out my photography website gritsphotography.com and especially the full photo set on Church Hill. 

One of the most photogenic spots in Church Hill is Christ Church, one of Mississippi’s oldest Episcopal churches, established in the early 1800s.

The towering Gothic-style structure, faded dark facade, and vibrant pink doors create a stunning contrast against a deep Southern blue sky. Whether you’re shooting for fine art prints or editorial content, the light here—especially in the early morning or late afternoon—adds atmosphere that can’t be faked.

Just down the road stands Wagner’s Grocery, a beautifully weathered abandoned general store that looks like it stepped out of a Southern novel. Rusted Coca-Cola signs, a tin roof speckled with patina, and a creaky old porch all make it a perfect subject for photographers drawn to vintage Americana and rural Mississippi decay. Framed by moss-draped oak trees, this scene has everything a lover of Southern backroad photography could want.

Church Hill isn’t on most maps for travel photography, and that’s exactly what makes it special. You won’t be fighting crowds or dodging traffic. You’ll find peace, history, and natural beauty—just waiting for your lens.

So whether you're a fine art photographer, a content creator, or someone chasing the perfect rural landscape, make sure Church Hill, Mississippi is on your shoot list. It's one of the South’s best-kept secrets for truly unforgettable Mississippi photography.

Photo Shoot Locations Around Vicksburg, Mississippi

I often get asked about the best spots around Vicksburg for senior portraits or family photo sessions, so I put together this post to highlight a few of my favorite local locations. These spots offer some beautiful backdrops right here in our area.

Keep in mind that the look of each place can change quite a bit depending on the season — winter and summer can create very different moods — so the example photos you’ll see might not reflect what the location looks like year-round.

Once you’ve had a chance to check out these Vicksburg locations, be sure to visit my photography site at gritsphotography.com, and take a look at the full Vicksburg Gallery for even more inspiration.

Downtown Vicksburg

Great for more urban backdrops and architecture! Loaded with old brick walls and buildings from the good old days, these backdrops provide that aged look that no money can buy for a commercial backdrop.

Brick wall of the old Corner Drug Store. Shot taken just before sunset.

Wall of exposed brick in Downtown Vicksburg

Steps of the old Trustmark Bank Building

Middle of the road. Watch out for traffic!

There are a couple of old trains down by the old Train station downtown

Glass reflection and a bench in Downtown Vicksburg

Mound, Louisiana Levees
Best in the summer when the wild flowers are in bloom! But great anytime for a wide open field look.

Rail Bridge on Old 27
Take either frontage road west (toward Jackson) all the way until you can't go any further, then take a left. On the left side of the road before you get to the Visitor's Bureau there is an old Rail Bridge.

Valley Park Train Station Site
I don't know who owns these trains or if they are on private property, but they provide a great backdrop for photos. I've never been asked to leave and I've shot there many times. Go up 61 north to Valley Park and the trains are parked on the left side of the highway.

Railroad Tracks off of Washington St Going Toward the Harbor Project

Go all the way down Washington Street toward the Harbor Project and when you get to the Fort Hill area of the Military Park on the right, look to the left and there is a long stretch of railroad track.

Miscellaneous Places

Bovina Rail Trestle - Not much for ground beauty, but a great backdrop.

Grand Gulf State Park - Just a short drive to Port Gibson. I've never shot there, but would probably make a great location

Catfish Row Downtown - Summer time place for GREAT action shots for the smaller kids.

Michel's Music Store Downtown Vicksburg - If I'm shooting a senior that is into guitars, then there's no better place than a music store.

Church Hill, Mississippi

Once upon a time a person could mail a letter to a loved one in Church Hill, Mississippi using zip code 39055. That is until September 30th, 1992 when Mr. Adolph Wagner, Jr. who had served as the Church Hill Postmaster from December 30, 1963 closed the Post Office doors for the last time. Now a simple unincorporated town in Jefferson County, Church Hill, Mississippi is located up Hwy 553 about 14 miles north of Natchez. But that is the end of the story, let's go back to the beginning.

After you've read my post of Church Hill, MS please check out my photography website gritsphotography.com and especially the full photo set on Church Hill. 

The genesis of the Church Hill community was a group of people known as the "Old Maryland Settlement" that moved to the Jefferson County area from Maryland after the Revolutionary War. For many years the town was simply known as the "Maryland Settlement" until the name was eventually changed to Church Hill around 1820.

If you drive through Church Hill, you would obviously think that the name comes from the big church on the hill, but it seems that the community name was established long before the church you see today was even built. The first church of the community, known as "Christ Church" was constructed of logs in 1820 and was located on Fairchild’s Creek, with the current structure not being built until 1858. This church was part of one of the oldest Episcopal groups that dated from the 1790's and its design was copied from the old country churches in England. Looking through the windows I could see the large beautiful beams, and I read that in the slave balcony you can still see the names of the founding members where they wrote their name with a turkey quill on one of the beams.

Around 1870 came the local goods/commissary store. I couldn't find any names for who ran the store from 1870 to 1927, but several records show that the store was run by the Wagner family from 1927 to 1997 with many Church Hill residents describing the store as the community's unofficial city hall.

So that brings us back to today. Today residents meet in the "Christ Church" once a month and the Wagner store is now the focus of a restoration project led by the Church Hill Preservation Trust, affiliated with the Historic Natchez Foundation. A push is on to not only save the old building but to transform it into an educational museum celebrating the area's history.

Now that I have researched Church Hill, I discovered that there is much more to see. There are several antebellum homes that I didn't get to. I hope to get back and see them soon. Here are a few more photos.

Grits Photography - Church Hill, MS

Sources for this blog

Jefferson County Website
The Free Library
Wikipedia

Using AI To Bring History To Life

In the twilight of the 1890s, the Steamboat "Peerless" glided along the Mississippi, its shallow 3½-foot draft perfect for navigating the ever-changing river channels. Built in Hermann, Missouri, the steamboat was lighter than most, designed for the passenger trade but capable of so much more. On this particular day, the Peerless was bustling with activity as it docked at Vicksburg, its steel cable rigging holding the deck flat under the weight of its expanded upper cabins.

Original Photo - 1890s Peerless

I'm sure the Captain stood at the wheel, glancing up at that big ornate wind-vane above the pilot house. Whether functional or decorative, it was a point of pride, though I'm sure the Captain could use that smoke from the twin stacks to tell him all he needed to know about the wind. 

Though now outfitted with private cabins on the second deck and a more modern rigging system, the Peerless still carried the spirit of its earlier days. Back in 1893, it had been simpler—fewer cabins, no railings, and a leaner build. But necessity and time had transformed it. The extra accommodations were a welcome change for travelers, though they added weight that demanded ingenuity to manage.

Even after sinking in 1903, it had been salvaged, rebuilt, and put back to work, proving its resilience. Now, in this early 1900s photo, it continued its service—connecting towns, ferrying passengers, and embodying the endurance of life along the Mississippi.

Buffett / Sideboard Table - Hall Table - Free Woodworking Plans

Had a lady call me about building her a buffet table and so I started drawing it up in Sketchup. The photo on the left is the finished product, but wanted to take the time to put my plans online so my fellow woodworkers might could benefit. I use so many of you guys plans, so I wanted to give back to the community! So let's get started.

The project is made from 2x6s and 2x4s only, even though the top could be made from 1x6s for a lighter configuration. The first step is to build the shell that will hold the shelves and the the top. The most critical part of the shell is to inset the side pieces 1/2" as shown in the drawing

below. I drilled 3 pocket screw holes on each end of the side pieces that would screw into the legs, and when I connected the 50" longer pieces, no pocket screws were necessary because I could screw right into the legs.



Next, I built the bottom shelf from 2x4s. I ran the boards through the table saw to remove 1/8" of an inch from each side of the board to make the total width 3 1/4". This was to remove the bevel edge for the 2x4s and make a flat edge. I then added some end-cap pieces that were 1.5" x 1.5" to act as the base for the "X" pieces to rest on. I then put 3/4" x 1"fur strips along the bottom so I would have a way to connect the shelf to the legs.

The next step is to build the middle shelf, which is identical to the bottom shelf except that you don't need the end-cap pieces. 

Now let's build the top so all our major pieces are completed before putting in all together. To build the top, I took off 1/2" from each side of four 2x6's so each board was 4 1/2" with smooth flat edges. If you wanted a wider top then you could take off more or less. 

Finally, put all the pieces together.The shelves are mounted as shown in the figure below. The bottom shelf is mounted 4" from the bottom, and the middle shelf is mounted 20.25" from the bottom.

 

For the X braces on the side, rip a 34” board into a 1 ½” strip (so final pieces are 34” x 1 ½” x 1 ½”) and lay the piece across the side as shown. Take a pencil and score the board from the back to make lines to cut the angles. 

Repeat the process for the other side of the X, except this time you will make four (4) scores to cut the two pieces.

Thanks for letting me share my plans! PLEASE leave a comment if they helped you in any way or that you used them. That's all the motivation I need to keep posting. Here are a couple more photos of tables I built with these plans.

For this table, I scaled down the dimensions to make a baby changing table.

Basic Getting Started Gardening 101 "Walker Style" - Lessons Learned

When I want to learn something, I go all in! I wanted to plant a garden this year, and when COVID-19 started me staying at home almost 100%, it was a perfect time to start a garden. I got on YouTube and started researching and looking at all the hundreds of opinions and

options to get started and steps to take, etc. After all my research, I narrowed it down to 5 areas or "pieces" of the puzzle for a successful garden:

1) Have good soil to grow in

2) Buy plants and planting them in your soil

3) Trellis plants once they start to grow

4) Watering, pruning and caring plants (bug control (organically), brown spots (blossom end rot), etc.)

5) Pick your vegetables

That's it! Of the GOBS of information out there, I narrowed it down to these 5 steps. 

1) Have good soil to grow in

I had no idea if my soil (in-ground) was good to grow in and I didn't want to send it off for testing, so the best option to get started was to do what's called a "raised-bed". That way, I could take just regular Home Depot potting soil (any brand) and plant in buckets, flower pots, anything I could find (including an old wheel-barrow). I bought the cheapest brand of potting soil they had called "Vigoro" because most people online said that brand didn't matter as long as it was labeled as "potting soil", but I did augment the soil using the directions with "Dr. Earth" organic tomato fertilizer because it seemed to be very popular online for people who aren't composting (another story). I will say that there are hundreds of opinions and different things people add to soil, from compost to eggshells, to epsom salt, all of which have value. But my soil is potting mix and Dr. Earth in buckets, flower pots, and even directly in the potting soil bag as you can see in the picture above (another YouTube trick for sprawling plants). NOTE: You will have to drill holes in the bottom of the buckets and all containers you plant in. You want the excess water to be able to drain. Again gardening 101!

2) Buy plants and planting them in your soil

For gardening 101, this one is easy. Buy plants that have already been grown to a 6-10 inch seedling. Planting your own seeds is like gardening 202 next level class, so go to your local garden center, home depot, etc and pick out the plants you want to grow. Tomatoes (5 varieties), cucumbers, squash and peppers were my plants of choice for this first garden. 

Then just stick them in your soil:

1) dig a hole 2) insert plant

NOTE: Several people recommended putting "mulch" around the plants, even in buckets, to keep direct sunlight from drying out the soil. I bought some really cheap mulch to do that as you can see in this photo. 

3) Trellis plants once they start to grow

Hey! Now I'm excited once I got to this stage, because I obviously am doing something right. Plants are starting to grow and produce fruit, so now it is time to come up with a trellis system. There are so many options for trellising, and the fact is that you can use old fencing or stuff you have around your house, but in my case I had wood scraps and string so I found this YouTuber that had made a home made trellis system using those exact materials, so I did that myself. I did order two things I needed to go with this system.

1) Metal garden stakes (garden stakes on Amazon) and 

2) Clips to attach plant to string (Clips on Amazon). These clips were very popular from a variety of YouTubers and are completely reusable to years to come. 

I built these very simple wood overhangs around my buckets by driving some wood stakes in the ground and then screwing in some other scraps into the stakes for about 7 feet of total height. I tied the string around the metal garden stakes and pushed the stake down into the soil being careful not the stab the plant, then ran the string up to the wood overhang pulling fairly tight and then tying a knot and cutting the string. Then as the plants grow, I use the clips to keep the plant attached to the string. By trellising the plant you keep airflow underneath and helps prevent disease which ultimately gives you more fruit. 

4) Watering, pruning and spraying plants for bugs (organically)

There are again hundreds of opinions and styles when it comes to now taking care of your growing plants, but I have boiled it down to three things I do regularly: 1) Water, Prune and spray. Watering is not an exact science. I stick my finger down into the soil and if it is moist, I don't water that day. If it is dry, I water. For pruning, watch this guy (Pruning Tomatoes). I watch a lot of his stuff! But basically, I keep the bottom stems cleared so no stems touch the soil and I prune all the "sucker" stems you'll see in the video which are stems that grow in the "arm pit" of the plants branches at a

weird angle. For bug control spraying, I chose to go 100% organic and not use pesticides or harmful chemicals because my grandson would be picking with me and if he (or I) just decided to eat right off the vine, then I wanted to be able to. So, we use 2 tablespoons of NEEM Oil and one teaspoon of dish washing soap per half-gallon of water in a sprayer and spray the plants (particularly the squash and cucumbers) to help control the bugs about once a week. For some reason, most bugs hate NEEM oil and the dish soap helps breakdown the oil in the water to coat the plants better. I encourage you to get on YouTube and research this, but this was a very common theme across many gardeners. Also, I had some squash and a couple tomatoes that had brown (rot looking) spots on the bases of the fruit, so this is a key sign of calcium deficiency. The trick there was to take one "TUMS" or antacid that had 750 milligrams of calcium per tablet and crush it and mix it with a half-gallon of water and spray the leaves of the plants. This will augment the calcium in the plants and keep future fruit from developing blossom end rot, but wont cure any fruit that already has it. 

5) Pick your vegetables

That's it! It is still fairly early in my first gardening season, and I literally just picked my first harvest yesterday and couldn't be more excited. Pick the tomatoes when they turn red, and squash and cucumbers when they seem big enough. If you pick one and it seems too hard or not ripe when you eat or cook them, then leave the next ones on a little longer before picking.

Please leave a comment below if you used this blog to help you get started. Here are a few more photos of the Walker garden. 

Deck Patio Hightop Chair - Free Plans

Been woodworking on Farmhouse style furniture for a few years, and this week I spent some time designing my own chair for my outdoor patio! It is barstool height with a seat hight of 29" inches and a footrest height of 17" inches. The back of the seat inclines around 15 degrees for comfort.

The project took 5 1x4s and 5 2x4s for a project cost of around $50 when you throw in glue and screws, and it took around 4 hours. The reason it went fast is because I spent about 3 days drawing it out in Sketchup and generating the cutlist in advance. I could not be happier with the way it came out and I am sharing the plans for this build below. Please leave a comment for me if you end up using the plan or have any ideas for improvement!

Supplies

For this project you will need the following lumber:
Five (5) 1x4s (3.5” x ¾”)
Five (5) 2x4s (3.5” x 1 1/2”)
Glue, 2 ½” pocket screws, 2 ½” wood screws, 2” wood screws, 1 ½ nail gun nails

Board Cut List and Optimization of Cuts

See the figures below for the cut list and the optimized way to cut to minimize waste.

  
Build Steps

Step 1 – Connect the back brace to the rear legs with glue and pocket screws facing the inside. Mount the brace flush with the edge of the legs and 7” inches from the bottom as seen in figure 1.

Figure 1

Step 2 – Connect the front brace to the front legs using glue and pocket screws facing the inside face. Mount the front brace flush with the edge of the legs and 10.5” inches from the bottom as seen in figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 3 – Using glue and nails, connect the two leg assemblies together using the 24” 1x4s on both sides as in Figure 3. Make sure the 1x4 is flush on all edges with the leg pieces.

Figure 3

Step 4 – Connect the 30” footstep braces to the leg assemblies using 2 1/2” screws on the inside faces. Pocket holes are not necessary, simply apply glue and screw through the boards to join. The back end of 30” board is flush and even with the back leg brace, and the front of the footboard brace is pushed up flush with the front leg brace with 7.5” inches sticking out from front. All this is shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4

Step 5 – Seat assembly. Build the box as seen in figure 5 using 20.5” pieces for the front and back, and 21” pieces for the sides and center support. Use glue and pocket screws for this assembly.

Figure 5

Step 6 – Mount the seat assembly as shown in Figure 6 24” inches from the bottom using glue and screwing through the box piece into the leg assemblies. No pocket screws needed.

Figure 6

Step 7 – Start gluing and nailing the seat slats onto the chair with the first piece flush against the front edge, with ¼” gaps between as in figure 7. After the 5th slat, connect the pieces that will support the back slats. This may be a little different for each of you as the gaps between slats may vary slightly. The main thing is to tilt the back supports around 15 degrees. Using the dimensions in figure 8, leave about a ½” gap between the last slat on the seat and the bottom of the back support piece and pivot it back until it crosses a line 2 3/8” from the edge of the 2x4 shown in figure 8. You can adjust this angle to your preference. Just make sure it is consistent on both sides. To assemble these pieces, use glue and 1 1/2” nails to hold and then use 2” nails to connect it solidly to the leg structure.

Figure 7

Figure 8

Step 8– Glue and nail the remaining slats to the back braces just installed as well as the two pieces for the foot brace. Again, all gaps should be ¼”. See figure 9 for details.

Figure 9

Step 9 – Final step, using glue and nails attach the arm rests as shown in Figure 10 with the back of the arm rest flush with the back leg, and the front overhanging.

Figure 10